Insider guide: Zante
Bustling nightlife, soft sandy beaches and rural, untouched countryside – this Greek island is packed full of charm, says Mike Gerrard
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There’s a reason that loggerhead turtles choose the beaches of Zante to scoop out their nests in the sand and lay eggs. They’re some of the softest sand beaches in the Ionian Sea, and just one of the reasons visitors are also drawn to this fascinating Greek island. Zante – or Zakynthos as it’s also known – is the most southerly of the Ionian islands, and packs a lot into a small space. Some parts are bustling with bars and nightclubs, but there are quieter resorts, too – and if you travel a mile inland you can find the kind of rural Greece that has always existed, covered in olives, as well as grapes and vegetables, and virtually untouched by the tourism that exists on the coast.
It’s an island where you can be as active and adventurous as you like, or you can just zonk out by the beach or the pool and soak up the sun. Or a bit of both. Its capital, Zakynthos Town, is worth a relaxed day’s visit. It has just enough to keep you occupied (a few small museums, churches, a Venetian fortress) but not so much that you feel pressured to pack it all in. The same goes for the island. There are some sights that are well-worth seeing, such as the Blue Caves and Shipwreck Bay, but if you don’t get round to it then it’s not the end of the world, and there’s always next time.
Not a lot changes on Zante, which is part of its charm and appeal for the many people who go back every year. Sure, some resorts get a bit busier, a new hotel might open to show a hot Greek trend, but Zante basically stays the same.
Where to stay
The Porto Zante Villas & Spa in Tragaki (www.thomascook.com), on the east coast, just a few miles from the capital and the airport, is a luxury hotel with its own white-sand beach and just five intimate villas. It’s the kind of boutique resort that has been transforming the Greek island holiday scene in the last few years, and it’s the ultimate romantic indulgent Zante escape.
More affordable and family-friendly is the fairly new Letsos Hotel (www.thomascook.com) in the lively little resort of Alykanas. This has its own pool, children’s pool and playground, bar and restaurant – in fact, you hardly need venture out.
Local dining
You won’t find Michelin-starred restaurants in Zante but you will find some good spots in almost every resort. The Mantalena in Alykanas (+30 26950 83550, www.mantalena.com) has been producing superb home-cooked Greek food since the Pylarinos family opened it in 1978. In Zakynthos Town, the Komis Fish Taverna at Ayios Leon (www.komistavern.gr) has been winning awards for years for its mainly fish and vegetarian dishes. You’ll get a complimentary starter of their house speciality, oregano soup.
Beaches
The beaches in Laganas Bay are the ones the turtles (and most tourists) choose, and here in the shallow waters off Kalamaki Beach you might even find yourself swimming with them – though you should keep a respectful distance. If you’d rather not share, then the beach at Port Roma at the end of the Vassilikos Peninsula has a lovely setting and rarely gets busy, even at the height of summer. If you feel more adventurous, rent a boat and visit one of Zante’s offshore islands where you may even have the beach to yourself.
Bring back
In Pigadakia, a tiny village inland from Alykanas, there is the charming little Vertzagio Cultural Museum (+30 26950 83580). Here you can not only get a glimpse of the traditional, agricultural way of life, but you can also buy produce from local farmers, such as olive oil and honey.
Get active
Zante and the other Ionian islands have some of the cleanest water in the Mediterranean. It doesn’t get to be that shade of bright turquoise by accident! So make the most of it and be sure to do some diving. Many of the resorts offer scuba diving, deep diving, and even night diving and underwater photography courses. Not into diving? Well, maybe it’s time you learned: take a beginner’s lesson.
What’s not too well-known about Zante is that it makes some very fine wines. It supplied wine to Venice when the Venetians ruled in the Ionian islands, and the industry is now booming again – as it is throughout Greece generally. Rent a bike and cycle through the vineyards of the fertile plain of Zakynthos, the region stretching north from Laganas Bay. Several vineyards are open to visitors, offering generous tastings and the chance to buy unusual wines direct from the maker at the winery equivalent of factory prices. Among the best are the Calinico Winery and the Solomos Winery, one of the most popular of all Greek wine-makers. So buy some wine (whites tend to be best) and go find a sunset to watch while you drink it.
What to know
Rent a car or bike and head into the island’s interior, to the rural towns and villages where not too many tourists go. The traditional mountain villages of Exo Hora and Maherado in the south of the island are fascinating, and also have fabulous views over the orchards, olive groves and vineyards. Here you’re guaranteed a warm welcome, and an adventure of some kind. And don’t be afraid to ask local people to recommend bars, restaurants, clubs, or beaches. They usually know places away from the resorts where you’ll have a really authentic Greek experience, the kind that will keep you going back to Zante – just like those turtles.
GETTING THERE
For more about to these destination visit your local Thomas Cook or Going Places store, call +44 (0)844 412 5966, visit www.thomascook.com or tune in to Thomas Cook TV on Sky channel 655
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